As we embrace the 21st century with the development of our website, although some of us with trepidation, we have the opportunity to participate in disseminating information which may be of interest to our members. That opportunity is this newsletter. We would like it to be a vehicle to share information provided by our members for our members.
While we understand that some of us aren't interested in receiving yet another email, I would like to think that most of our members have a desire to keep informed about those things in which they have an interest. As members of the Grand Clay Arts Club, we share a desire to express our creativity in the medium known as clay. And we all know there is always something more to learn about working with clay.
So I invite you to participate. When you have a tip, new process, book or magazine, or club activity or practice that you feel would be of interest, please write an article to be shared with our members. You can send your articles to the newsletter editor (currently Lynne Shanrock) for possible inclusion in a future newsletter. Please keep in mind that we want this to be a positive and beneficial communication vehicle. It is not a complaint desk.
We look forward to and thank you for your participation.
General Membership Meeting
Lynne Shanrock
The next general meeting of the Clay Arts Club is Thursday, October 17, at 9 a.m. in the Hopi Room of the Chaparral Center. Please join us to keep up to date on the latest happenings in the Clay Club. Coffee and donuts will be available!
Is Your Clay Too Hard?
Lynne Shanrock
Many of us are returning from summers spent in other parts of the country. And what do we find? Our clay has become unworkable in our absence! What to do?
There are several ways to re-hydrate clay and the process is relatively easy depending upon the dryness. First, assure that your clay bag does not have any holes. If the clay still retains some moisture but you want it softer, wrap the clay in a wet towel and seal in in the clay bag for several days. Check periodically and, if necessary, add a little more water to the bag. If your clay is on the drier side, add 1/2 to 1 cup of water to the clay in the bag, seal it, place the sealed bag of clay in a large bucket with a lid, add water to the bucket up to the top of your block of clay. Leave it for several days. Check the softness periodically by poking with your finger and add additional water inside the clay bag if your clay is still too firm. The amount of water you add will depend on the initial moisture content of your clay and the amount of clay in the bag. Depending upon the kind of work you do, wedging may be required to distribute the moisture and remove any trapped air.
If your clay is bone dry, break up the mass, cover with water and wait. You will then have to dry out the clay to the consistency needed for workability. You will definitely have to wedge the clay once it is at a workable stage.
To preserve your clay in its workable state when you leave for extended periods of time, seal your clay in it's original bag (again, no holes), put into a bucket with a tight-fitting lid after adding an inch or so of water to the bottom of the bucket. Cover with the lid. Your clay should be workable when you return.
